Thursday, August 15, 2013

Ahhh, the Finale of Assumption Day

Just as I took Skippy out for his last walk of the day.....along came a lovely procession of priests, nuns and pilgrims singing a capella, a beautiful, mellow hymn, and carrying aloft on shoulders a beautiful golden statue of the Virgin Mary wearing a lace cape and jeweled crown.  

They carried her right up to the Basilica, right through the throng of people going in and out of the bistros.  There was a slight hush as she passed by, then the clink of glasses and the chatter grew once again. 

Living here on rue Beaumanoir, one sees the most extraordinary sites.  (alas, no camera this time)

Regarding Assumption Day


This being my first Assumption Day in France, I find I was not well informed.
There is another tradition which is hugely attended. 

It seems this special day is also celebrated by having every motorcycle and scooter in Brittany soar down my street: Rue Beaumanoir, in Josselin revving all the way on its journey to the bonfire, bagpipes and fireworks.   I mean every motorcycle, yes every one.  yep. Many with sidecars, French Flags, Breton Flags, at least one American Flag, various horns, music, beeps, sirens blaring and the coveted hand slap while flying past reaching onlookers.  They come in waves.  Just when you think it's over.....down to an occasional biker tooling along.....the hoards come again...revving and revving and blasting all the sound effects.  You would think it was 5 hundred weddings! Something like Lake George on the 4th or is that Memorial Day? Or beyond.  It's been going on for over an hour now with little sign of ending,  Oh yeah, here they come again!!!! Oh wow, I can't believe how loud it is!!!  Skippy is hiding in the upstairs bathroom. 

I'm having a terrible time getting the video loaded. (I'll keep trying) Maybe there's a youtube version of this motorcycle parade in France on Assumption Day.  It's C R A Z Y!!! Au Revoir mon amis, Au Revoir!!


Assumption Day

Today, August 15th is Assumption Day.  The day the Virgin Mary is taken up into Heaven.  Mary is the patron saint of France.(since 1638)  This is a very important holiday in France. (and throughout Europe and South America)
It is a national holiday and so, most shops are closed at least while people are in church celebrating the Ascent.
 Some shops may open later in the day, Restaurants may be open, as this is in the middle of tourist season.  In France, when a holiday falls on a Tuesday or a Thursday.....they "make the bridge"....or include the inner day to create a very long weekend.  There will be fireworks tonight.
The Basilica bells were peeling this morning and so I knew something was up!!  I'm not even Catholic, but I find this pageantry beautiful and full of cultural heritage. 

It never ceases to fascinate me that France, a secular country, does still honor religious festivals on their national calendar.  The US does honor Christmas as a national holiday....so it is in that way that France honors Assumpton day. (though certainly not commercially)
 But France is quite strident in its observance of secular life and government stemming from the Revolution that even outlawed days of the week and the measure of days in a week/month.  (now reformed)

But still we see the power of religious belief so compelling as to override government.  And one cannot help but take notice of those religious peoples for whom the religion and the government are one and the same.  A serious danger to be sure.

But for Christmas and Assumption Day and others like them, there is a traditional nicety, a cleanness of intent, a joyous occasion of giving and sharing that harms no one.  May it always be so.

Till we meet again, Au revoir!

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

A Great Thing!!

Yes, a great thing happened last week.  I got my car!  Tres Bien
Voiture!!! (car)
Citroën C3 with Nav&back-up
also Automatique!!!
The red thing on the floor of the front seat is a floatation device.  All cars in France are required to have a floatation device for every person.  A kind of foreshadowing, don't you think?


Here is the beautiful 12th century chapel in St-Croix. (village across the canal)  I think it reflects byzantine or Moorish style.          
 


Going back to the village of LaGacilly on Friday with Lucile.
Went there with Amanda and Rob and just loved it.

Here is a pic of a "black" tomato that Lucile gave me.  It's really just a dark burgundy with blackish green around the stem.  Never heard of it before.  Very delicious. 
Well, this was just a little catch-up on misc. things!  Be back soon! Bientôt!  Till we meet again,
Au revoir!!

Monday, August 12, 2013

Ce que j'ai lu

Bon jour!!  

Usually by this time in a year, I will have read about 20 books.  But this year, I've spent much less time reading.  Most of my reading this year took place during the cold, gray winter. 
Reading is EVERYTHING during a cold, gray winter.  In France.  When you hardly know anyone.

Since the warm weather rolled around there's been a lot less reading going on and a lot more socializing, getting out and reveling in the warmth and fresh air.  People here really grasp at these warm sunny days.  In New York, we have cold and snow, but we still have sunshine a lot through it all.  Not here.  Winter sets in gray and stays that way.  Cold rain and no light.  
 I'm not complaining...just reporting! 
It makes up for it in the 10:30 pm summer daylight.  Days are getting shorter now, mid-August...so now it's getting dark about 9:45-10.  

Come winter, I will be reading again.    (Oh, but I will be back in New York again, too!)

While planning the trip, just before arriving here I read
In the Shadow of the Banyan by Vaddey Ratner    an excellent memoir, beautifully written, very thoughtful

I can't remember if I read this just before or just after arriving:
Life After Life by Kate Atkinson  unusual novel, clever and absorbing

Also just before Gone Girl by  ......oops, forgot......well, you'll find it on any current bestseller list

In France:
Married to Bhutan by Linda Leaming, a sort of hippie-chick off to find herself

A History of France by William S. Davis......dense, informative, much needed

Biography of Jane Digby "a Scandalous Life" by Mary S. Lovell,  wonderful read, amazing woman living out a life of wild, exotic adventure in the 19th century Europe and beyond

Rosa and the Prince by Kathryn Bround
read this after watching a movie called "Sissi" starring Romy Schneider...the book is about Crown Prince Rudolph of Austria and the scandal surrounding his life and death
The book is not very well written, but I was fascinated by the story

And The Mountains Echoed by Khaled Hosseini   the author of The Kite Runner (which I loved)
this one not so much.  Kind of dragged along.....I don't think I even finished it....

The Painted Girls by Cathy Marie Buchanan  forlorn story of the dancers depicted in Edgar Degas impressionist paintings of ballerinas.  A novel based on some factual background.  Fascinating

Anne of Brittany "Twice Queen of France" by Mildred Butler   a brief biography of Anne.  She was duchess of Brittany and then married to the Duke, to be Queen of Brittany....when widowed, she made a deal with the King of France, to marry.  She was a much beloved figure in her history. She was born in Nantes, and is featured in many areas of Brittany today, even in commercial products. 

Pretty Woman Spitting by Leanna Adams  good look at Americans teaching English in China (seems to be a popular vocation lately)

And finally....The Orchardist by Amanda Coplin, which I am reading now.  Enjoying it very much.

There were a few others which I struggled with and set aside, so they aren't mentioned.

I'm not even sure why I'm posting this list here, except on the outside chance you may be interested in what an American in Josselin reads.  Although there is an English Book store here in Josselin, I have only bought a couple of items there and those related to site seeing in the region. All of the above I have on my Kindle.  Like Magic.  It boggles my mind.  That books can be had and captured and contained through the air, appearing on a magic slate before me.

I do promise to post a review of our trip to Normandy soon.  It's a powerful topic and requires some intensity. Amanda covered it nicely in her blog.  With great pictures.  Much of what I will write in the future will repeat.  check out her blog's latest entry: www.Hudsonvalley-Love.com
"Hudon Valley Resident Moves to France"   ha!  that's me!

OOPS!!  I left out 2 important ones!!! 
Little Princes, by Conor Grennan  a great memoir of his travels and volunteering at an orphanage in Nepal.  Beautiful story. 

Cotton Tenants by James Agee,  this caught my attention as was written by James Agee who wrote "A Death in the Family" a great play that I came to love when I saw a college production of it back in Ohio.  It is also called "All the Way Home" and was made into a movie starring Robert Preston.  It had a theme song that was very haunting. 
Agee wrote this narrative of 3 Cotton Farmers in the south, sharecropping and trying to survive and provide for their families during the Depression 30's.  This got my attention as my grandparents lived that very life in Tennessee before going to Ohio.  My mother and her siblings picked cotton for 50cents a bushel.

This is a cold hard look at that life.  He uses the "N" word a lot, as was common in those days. There are brutal portraits, both in word and picture.  I could add much to it, but I won't. 

Can't believe I almost forgot to include these 2 books!!   and so, "fini".


So, until we meet again, Au revoir!!!  Bientôt!!  Kah-tee (my name in French) 


Sunday, August 11, 2013

Check Out This Link!!! It's a Must!!!

www.Hudsonvalleylove.blogspot.com 

click on the above blue link!!

Read the August 11, 2013 post.  It's all about here in Josselin and surrounding parts here and there.

It's written by my daughter, Amanda following the recent trip here by Amanda and her fabulous husband, Rob.  She chronicles our varied adventures traveling through Bretagne and Normandy.

I will be adding much more to my own version here shortly, but I really wanted you to take a look at Amanda's latest blog entry.   Normally she writes about any and all things related to the Hudson Valley, NY.  Food, Emporiums, Antiquing, Seasonal, Sites, Sports, etc.

This entry highlights my move from Newburgh, NY to my newly "adopted" hometown of Josselin, France. And all the pictures are great. 

Thanks Amanda!  Love you, too!!


Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Visiteurs!!!

Bon Jour mon Visiteurs!! coming to Josselin to spend time with me!! 

Very end of July!! Amanda and Rob came to town! Their flight was delayed but only by a couple of hours.  They flew to Paris and changed to a turbo-prop.  That flight came into Rennes about 1:30 on Monday July 29...they picked up their rental car and drove to Josselin with their GPS device arriving just after 4.  That first moment of greeting them was so great.  Butterflies in my tum.    They spent an entire week with me which was so great and meant we didn't have to rush around.  We were able to see so much and still have some relaxing days just hanging out attending to chores and poking around town.  

Tuesday morning, we drove out to Sue's for coffee.  It's about 5 miles out into the countryside and confusing.  We did get turned around but finally made it.  YAY GPS!!! A great little visit to her charming self renovated house and also her charming renovated doggie, Gus.  He was a shelter find like Skippy and is adorable. 


In advance we had booked ourselves up to Normandy for a night and Skippy into a kennel.  (a great Kennel in Brittany...Woodhaven in Porcaro...if you need a kennel in this area THIS is the ONE) Lots of driving for Rob, but I think he enjoyed it.  I was the mother in law in the back seat.  A true test for Rob (or me?). Rob is a good guy, a real sport! 

Rob and Amanda climbed the 100+ steps of the Basilica tower to see the view of Jossein all around.  We "dined" at the local bistros here in town.  They checked out the Chateau (Castle) grounds.  Later in the week we browsed the shops and enjoyed the Breton Singing and dancing on the town square on Friday Evening  Saturday of course, was the market day and we bought the ubiquitous baguette and the rotisserie poulet and the pomme du terre from the food truck.  The flat peaches were delish.  Josselin was a real crowd scene on Saturday and it's always fun the have a brew at the bistro and engage in some people watching.  Was glad to introduce A&R to some of my new friends here in Josselin.  Barbara, and her son, visiting from Japan! Also Luc,
the bistro proprietiere and Frank, from Ireland by way of China,
We even walked down to Saint Croix and to "The Bird House" or "La Maison des Oiseaux" and had a cool drink with Ann and Brian Bird. Also a house restored all the way from a derelict shed to a modern home. (also a B&B).
Actually Ann gave me wonderful elderberry flavored sparkling wine which she makes herself.

But before Saturday....on Wednesday in fact, we drove up to Normandy.  I am leaving Normandy for the next blog entry after this one.  It deserves its own separate entry. It really is stunning.

After the Normandy entry, you will catch up with A&R's visit and the rest of our travels on a subsequent entry!!  Bientôt!!  PS here are a few random pics!!
gargoyle at the Basilica

Voila !!

Voila!  I am finally here.  Back to my blog with so much to say.

Bastille Day!! Was the hottest day of the summer. Was in the high 80's.

 Over in Saint Croix (the little village other side of the canal) was a huge Vide Grenier! (Clear out the attic street sale)  There was a fund raiser for the Cat rescue Charity.  I volunteered to serve coffee, tea, juice and baked goods for a couple of hours.  All I really did was help out Sue and Ann a little.  We were under a canopy, out of the sun, but still hot as ____!  The most fun is people watching, greeting and surveying all the stuff people put out to sell.  I found some sweet "miniatures", very old French in style. 
I hope they raised a good amount for the cats! 

Late in the evening, Lucile and I went down the ramp to review the fireworks over the canal.  It really was spectacular and of course very similar to my own Independence Day fireworks.  There was beautiful music, choirs of "angels" singing, chanting a solemn, emotional anthem. So beautiful.
The crowd was quite silent during this part and only erupted a little after the finale.  Immediately following, the crowd very quietly dispersed....walking away holding hands.  I could relate only by taking to heart my own patriotic emotion and loyalty for my dear USA.  
 "stuff" for sale     (BTW, Moules and Frites are Mussels and Fries......most popular dish around!)

and Ann and Brian on Vide Grenier Day, Bastille Day, 14 Juillet 2013
Above:  Me with Hat and below....French "miniature"

And view of one block of Vide Grenier sale day                    and Fireworks!!!